Wednesday, 22 May 2019

Hidden Jewels in Moscow: Jewish Museum and Tolerance Centre


Hidden Jewels in Moscow: Jewish Museum and Tolerance Centre
Location: улица Образцова 11, стр.1, лит. А, Moscow, Russia

Cost: 
200 roubles (For full-time university students, ISIC card holders, school children, parents with many children and retirees)
Free (For children below the age of 7, disabled persons, war veterans, military servicemen, orphans)
400 roubles (For everyone else)
SGD1 ~ 47 roubles

Jewish Museum and Tolerance Centre
The museum is said to be the largest Jewish museum in the world, costing about US$50 million to build. It encompasses a huge area divided chronologically into thematic exhibitions. Thus, by following a map provided in English or Russian one is able to follow the history of the Jews from the creation of Mankind to the Jewish lives in Soviet Russia. Following this trail enables one to understand the point of view or perspective of the Jews towards their own culture as well as the reasons behind their dealings with the world and the mistreatment they received from being part of this culture. The museum is a very state-of-the art museum with a plethora of interactive and creative exhibits. You will also be able to learn a great deal about this often misunderstood and rather mysterious culture. Indeed, this museum is a very much underrated 'hidden' jewel for the traveller with the time!
Experience
For very much the same reason for not visiting the other Hidden Jewels in this Blog Series, the Jewish Museum and Tolerance Centre is not the primary reason one would go to Moscow. However, if one did have the time and is perhaps in need of a unique and worthwhile experience, the Jewish Museum is one place that would not disappoint for spending a whole 2 hours in.
Gulag History Museum Closure
I came here in the summer of 2018. To be honest, this museum was not the museum I had planned to visit for that day; I had planned to visit the Gulag History Museum.  Thus, after class had ended around 2.30pm, I headed back to my dormitory near Prospect Mira to put away my books and stuff and then took a long trip eastward to the Gulag History Museum. Unfortunately, that museum was apparently closed - and closed for quite a while too! -and it was only when I talked to a security guard in the building that I found out it was closed. I found it strange that there was no notice of the museum’s closure made available online but, in any case, my plan for the afternoon had been derailed.
As I sat and pondered as to what I should do next, I quickly looked at my list of places to visit and checked which is the nearest place I could go to because some places of attractions would close early at around 8 or 9pm and at that time, it was already around 4pm. It turns out, the Jewish Museum is the nearest place I could go, only a 20 minutes bus ride further eastwards from where I was.
Journey to the Jewish Museum
Thus, I took a trolley bus, ‘7’, which took me about 20 minutes where I dropped off a short 5 mins walk away from the Jewish Museum. When I got off the trolley bus, I found myself surrounded by buildings which looked like factory warehouses with several shops littered around. As I got nearer to the museum, I also notice that the neighbourhood is kind of like a Jewish neighbourhood as you start to see people in Jewish yamada caps and certain shops also displayed Hebrew words and sold Jewish cultural goods. About a 5 minutes walk later, I turned a corner and came to this huge complex which looked like a refurbished high-end factory with the Russian word for Jewish Museum and Tolerance Centre prominently displayed on the façade of the building (Do try to remember how these Russian words looks like, as it will greatly help you in identifying and locating the museum!).
I entered the compound and walked into this sort of like a mini park with a shelter in it, I think it was a café or it could be an outdoor performance area. As it was during the World Cup, a huge projector screen had been propped up and I could see about 4-5 people seated there, presumably waiting for a match that was starting later in that evening. I walked past it, past a carpark and entered the building.
The Museum
Instantly, I was bedazzled by the vast interior. The museum has a very high ceiling, thus creating a very open breathable space. The place too is very huge, perhaps the size of a football field, and from my first impression of the displays that were near me, I knew that this place has a lot of things to offer that would keep me entertained for hours. At the entrance, there was a security check where I handed over my bag and a metal detector ran through my belongings. After the check, I walked towards the ticket counter across the entrance where I could purchase my ticket there. The man attending the counter could speak good English thus I had no trouble showing my ISIC card which entitled me a discounted price and he also gave me a map to tour the exhibits. According to the map, which had clear numbers written on them, I had to follow the numbers representing the different thematic exhibit and this would provide a clear flow to my museum experience.
Each exhibit is unique and different from the next one and the amazing thing is that each exhibit is interactive in their own unique ways. In one of the exhibit, I could take part in a Jewish dinner ceremony, where I moved objects around the dining table while being seated and this triggered some motion sensors that activated a video clip or audio clip explaining some of the Jewish customs related to dining. In another exhibit, I could enter a small replica of a synagogue and flip through a big digital Torah to uncover the history of the early Jewish people. In another, I could digitally dress up as a blacksmith or a rabbi and have my photo taken, which I could later then purchase at the museum gift shop at the end. In others, I could walk into the homes of prisoners and Jewish homes and have a look around a convincing mock-up to understand the lives of this group of people. Technology was greatly embedded in each of the exhibits and this gave an interesting and fun take to the traditional history museums. Another welcoming treat I find in this museum was the availability of English translations for almost all the exhibits, which is rarely the case in the other museums I have visited in Russia.
What sets this Jewish Museum apart from other Jewish Museums elsewhere are the exhibits that told about the history of the Soviet Union as well as the lives and treatments towards the Jewish people in Soviet Russia. It seems that while the Jewish people are active participants of Soviet history, they were also treated unfavourably during certain periods of time that resulted in some earlier diasporas from Russia for example.
Worth it Experience: 4-D ride
The exhibit and experience which I thought made the ticket itself worth was the 4-D ride I got to take located very early on in the museum map tour. The ‘exhibit’ is a small round domed theatre located around the middle of the museum where one is able to enter during the given showtimes. When it is showtime, I gave my ticket to an usher who scanned my ticket and gave me a pair of 3D glasses and then I walked into the dark theatre room for the show to begin. The chairs could move like a theme park ride and as it is a 4D effects show, air pressure machines and water sprays sprayed at me corresponding to the clip I was watching. The experience went for about 10-15 minutes I think, and it was about the creation of the world to an earlier part of Jewish history. I remember there was the story of Moses and I think Noah too because there were scenes of locusts where I was puffed with pressurized air and then sprayed with water while being accompanied by huge rocking movements. I just remember thinking to myself how incredible the ride is and how worth-it it the ticket price feels like, just for this ride because I have been to similar rides in Canada for example but it costs a lot more and did not come with a museum pass!
Time
There was also another theatre I could have entered and experienced in one of the later exhibits but unfortunately, I did not have the time. Due to my earlier change of plan, I came quite late and in fact, I was the last visitor to the museum and the museum near to the closing time was virtually empty. In the 4D theatre, there was only one other female student visitor in there with me for example and in almost all the exhibits, I was the only person looking through them. The place is simply enormous and if you really want to try everything out, I would recommend allocating 2 hours to visiting this museum. I spent about 1.5 hours, but I missed the last 4-5 exhibits as a result of coming here late.

Some of my favorite exhibit that I managed to experience was an exhibit about the Great Patriotic War (otherwise referred to as World War II to other parts of the World) where it gave me a background of the war efforts of the Soviets in repelling the German invasion of their homeland. The Soviets of course played a crucial and often understated role in ensuring Hitler did not reign supreme over Europe. In this exhibit, you can view a couple of interviews of war veterans that talked about the conditions of the war, the lack of preparation of the Soviet army, the nationalistic feeling of defending one's homeland and also an interesting insight of how Soviet Jews were able to conduct some of their Jewish customs amid the chaos of the war.
Museum Shop
A museum employee checked up on me and informed me that the museum was closing. Hence, I made my way back towards the entrance, slightly forlorn that I missed quite a bit of exhibits that looked just as amazing as the ones I have visited has been. On my way out, I passed the museum shop which was still open and tended by one female staff at the counter. Wanting to have a remembrance sake from my visit here, I bought a passport holder of Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space, a ‘Super Jew’ badge (which costs a whooping 400 roubles) and 2 pictures of me, one dressed as a Rabbi and another dressed as a Blacksmith. Thanking the lady, I left the museum feeling grateful for the opportunity to have been here.

Thursday, 9 May 2019

Hidden Jewels in Moscow: State Darwin Museum


Hidden Gems in Moscow: State Darwin Museum

Location: Ulitsa Vavilova, 57, Moskva, Russia, 11729
Cost: 
Free (For children below the age of 7)
400 roubles (For everyone else)
SGD1 ~ 47 roubles

Additional costs for certain Interactive Exhibits such as “Walking Through Evolution” and “Know Yourself, Know the World”.
Payment can be done at the museum itself.


State Darwin Museum
The museum is purported to be a natural history museum explaining the works of Charles Darwin on evolution and it consists of two buildings; the Main Building and the Exhibition Halls Building.
The Main Building comprise of the ticket counter near the entrance, a cloakroom and museum store in the basement and some ticket-covered and non-ticket covered exhibitions. To get to the Exhibition Halls building, where the bulk of the exhibitions are, you will have to head down to the basement and find for a passageway that connects both buildings. The Exhibition Hall building is designed in themes, different from level to level, but with proper guidance, you can eke out a flow to the museum. Everything in this building is covered by the ticket except for one exhibition in the upper levels, the museum shop and some virtual simulation rides that you can try out. A worthy note: This museum is huge!
Experience
For someone to have gone all the way to Russia, an unlikely tourist destination for many in itself, the State Darwin Museum is definitely one place not high up on a tourist's wish list of places to visit. People would rather go to the famous Kremlin or St Basil's Cathedral. But Moscow is not only about these two places. If you have the time, the State Darwin Museum is one hidden gem that you definitely do not want to miss.

I came here in the summer of 2018 on a weekend. I did not have a plan for the morning, but I had plans to catch the World Cup at the FIFA Fan Fest at Moscow State University in the evening with some friends. While researching on places to visit nearby to kill the morning, I found the State Darwin Museum, which also happens to be in the ISIC app I was heavily using for inspiration for places to visit.
Hence, I took the Moscow subway train which I was getting familiar with from Prospekt Mira where my dormitory was located to Akademishskaya Station on the M6 Brown line which took me about an hour. After getting off, it took me awhile to get my bearings right and find the museum. The museum is about a 5-minutes walk away from the station.
The museum from the outside does not look all that impressive. It looks like a dull yellow building that did not offer much. A couple of large statues of dinosaurs outside of the museum however, gave clues on what I can find in the museum.
Buying the Tickets
As in most places in Moscow, knowing some Russian will get you a long way. The ticket line is quite long, and the entrance was pretty crowded and rowdy. Noises from an interactive exhibit nearby and people chatting about were blaring in my ears. The majority of the crowd seems to be young Russian families with their little children. When it was my turn to purchase the tickets, I quickly whipped out my ISIC card app and asked in Russian how much it costs for a ticket; ‘Skolka stoit eta bilyet?’. All the ticket prices and signs are in Russian and my Russian was not proficient enough to understand it all, but I did see the ISIC card logo so I assume there must be a discounted price. The ticket lady pointed at the 150 roubles and I gladly took out 150 roubles to pay for the ticket. In return, I got a paper pass which I then gladly pocketed.

Walking Around the Main Building
Every time I walked into an exhibition hall, there is an officer at the entrance who asks for our passes. I was only rejected once, from a very cool looking exhibit called “Know Yourself, Know the World” with the noises and flashing lights but it is because I had to buy a separate ticket. The exhibit also seemed to be primarily geared for children as there were many kids running about and making a deal of a noise in there. At first, I thought that the Main Building was the only building there is. To be fair, I was not expecting much for 3 Singapore dollars as the Moscow Kremlin had cost a lot more. In the Main Building, I visited an exhibit on the history of the museum and then a temporary exhibition on wolves which was in conjunction with the World Cup. The official mascot of the World Cup in Russia was Zabivaka, a wolf. The name itself is a combination of two Russian words that meant 'hothead' and to 'score'. In that exhibition, there were real stuffed wolves and interesting facts about wolves and its symbol in various cultures.
Throughout my visit, I relied on the izi.Travel App, a really useful app that I was introduced to by Russians when I visited the Banksy Exhibition near the Moscow River. It is free to download, and I used it in most museums because the cost of hiring an English language tour guide is relatively quite expensive and I am still not proficient enough in Russian to fully enrich myself in the exhibits. Each museum display usually has a number in which I can refer to in the App that will then provide me with an audio guide of what each display is about. Only some displays are not to be found on this app.
However, after spending a good 20 minutes, I realise that the izi.Travel App indicates a lot more exhibits than the ones in this building. So I went down to the basement where I spotted the museum shop and cloakroom and then I saw some arrows pointing down a linkway. The linkway looked really drab and ordinary, I initially thought it led to the toilet or something, but instead, it led me to an entirely wonderful world.
The (main) Exhibition Building
When I entered the building, I was instantly mesmerized. The first floor has really huge impressive statues of animals reaching almost to the ceiling, and these statues were supposedly to scale! The animal statues are statues of extinct animals such as the Giant Anteater.  There is a winding staircase to the upper levels and also a couple of lifts in the corner. As I mentioned before, from the outside, the museum may look like some plain old building but from the interior everything seemed modern and new and really impressive. 
In the next 1.5 hours, I rushed to explore the many exhibits that there are in this building. The building is very huge and is probably the size of a football field but they have several floors. The museum does not only have exhibits on evolution, with displays upon displays of dinosaur bones or dinosaur replicas, they also have an exhibition on the development of evolutionary studies and an enormous taxidermal collection, so enormous and grand that there are definitely more than 1 000 preserved animals in the exhibits, many of which were purposely poised in impressive curated landscaped environments of the animals natural habitat. So I could find displays of snarling wolves, moose in a fight, a bear on its two legs and all kinds of rare animals. There were simply so many in this taxidermal collection. I eventually skipped some as I was running late; I only had plans to visit for 2 hours.
Non-Ticket Covered Exhibit
I found myself in kind of a clearing on one of the upper levels in the main exhibition building. The last two floors are relatively less crowded and there is a winding staircase I could take that took me to the top of the museum tower where I could see Moscow in the distance. As one walks up these steps, there are small rooms with smaller exhibitions that I could enter, some of which was a bit weird to my taste and I am not sure what they were about as it was not reflected in the izi.Travel App. Some were about stones while some seems to be about art.
However, on one of the upper floors there was this cool metallic UFO like exhibit at one corner. A lady was seated at the entrance so I approached her and asked if I could enter. She said I have to buy a separate ticket for 40 roubles, about 1 Singapore dollar. As I was curious, I paid for the ticket and entered the UFO-like exhibit.
Inside is like a maze that lights up as I walk through, think 'Walking with Dinosaurs'. The exhibit, it turns out, is the “Walking Through Evolution” exhibit which takes me back to the dinosaur’s emergence and extinction in history. As I traverse the maze littered with tropical deco and dinosaur replicas, I would come across rooms in which I must answer a question on the evolution of certain species of dinosaurs, hence I would actually learn something as I move from one display to another. For a dollar, it was definitely worth going through the exhibit and I was a bit surprise that there was only a mother and son in there with me at the time I went!
I also wanted to check out the virtual simulation rides in the museum but unfortunately, I did not have the time; my friend was calling me to come over. I quickly went to the museum shop at the Exhibition Building and bought myself some badges before reluctantly leaving the museum for the Metro station.
Overall Verdict
This is one museum, if you have the time and perhaps covered the ordinary must-travel places in Moscow, in which you definitely must visit. It is certainly great in value especially if you have already applied for an ISIC card. For a less touted about place, this is definitely a hidden gem worth an entire half day visit.
Total Spending for the Visit: 190 roubles ~ SGD 4.04

Keywords: Places to Visit, Moscow, Russia, Museums